The long awaited dream of a Southeast Asian adventure came and, somewhat abruptly, went. A minor/major incident between our minibus, a 4x4 and a temple wall meant my friends and I are back in England a bit sooner than planned. All the breakages seem to be healing okay, even if my hopes for a Christmas spent in the sea with a snorkel and on a yoga mat in the sand have been slightly scuppered. Although we only made ten days in Thailand - Bangkok, Pai and Chiang Mai - I did still manage to take a few pictures.
Chiang Mai noodles
Pai Canyon
Viharn next to Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai
Thien Art Space, Pai (amazing bar and restaurant, look here)
Love Strawberry Pai, strawberry farm
Bewel Hostel, Bangkok
As our first destination from the airport, this was where Gerry and I were reunited with Natalie and Charlie after they left us in Leeds nine months previously. Maybe it was a combination of the long-haul flight, the jet lag, and the wall of super sweaty midday heat, or maybe it was the girls emerging brown and barefoot to greet us and the way the tranquil air-conditioned space invited us in from the confusing Bangkok streets, but Bewel seemed like some sort of oasis or dream; surreal and beautiful. It is a tranquil haven, only a ten minute walk from the Khao San road but without any of the manic bustle and noise. Owned by charming Frenchman Gerard, the hostel feels like something you would find in Ibiza, but without the pretensions (or the price tag). The walls throughout are painted that white that is cool but not cold, and the second floor lounge area is filled with mismatched furniture and slouchy beanbags complemented by the low ceiling and exposed wooden staircase. The shared areas are simple yet stylish, with a decor mixing Thai and French drawings, posters and paintings, and the dorm we stayed in was light and airy. If I ever found myself in Bangkok again there is no doubt I would stay here.
We paid a slightly discounted price for reduced shower access as a couple were being renovated, but from what I remember the usual rate in a dorm is about 300baht per night (just under £6).
Included in the price is a simple breakfast, drinking water, tea and coffee, a shared tv and computer, secure luggage storage and lockers in the room.
Find the hostel on Facebook and TripAdvisor
If I had to put forward a coffee shop in my experience that came under the heading of 'hidden gem', Graph Cafe would have to be the one. Wandering through the back streets of Chiang Mai, among hostels, tiny local restaurants and stray dogs, we came across this maven of cool and caffeine around the corner from some washing machines we were using. Far from the usual hippie traveller character of many places you come across, this cafe is host to trendy minimal decor and a coffee machine/prep station any budding barista would salivate over. We were served by a lovely Thai guy in thick black rimmed glasses and a breton shirt, who made some excellent bagels (not a common baked good in Thailand) and even better lattes. Graph is one of the smallest cafes I think I have ever been to - the four of us only just fit into the space with a friendly, elegant lady from Bangkok at the other table, as Bretonshirt and his friend (who was fixing Charlie's camera) squeezed past us. But this is far from a negative, as it makes you feel like you've dropped in at a friend's house, sitting in their front room chatting or reading the newspapers and magazines available on top of the glass cabinets. Camera fixed and caffeine cravings satiated, we filed outside as another woman waited by the window to let us pass and not box us in like sardines. Verdict: small but perfectly formed.
Find the cafe on Facebook
Pai Highland Resort, Pai
About fifteen minutes on foot from the main walking street of Pai and its busy bars and restaurants, this hostel gives the option of twin rooms or cute little individual cabins. In the interest of budgeting we went with the former, but when that option allows you to pay less than £3 each to share with a friend and have an ensuite bathroom thrown in too, you can't really complain. There is plenty of space for hired mopeds (exhilarating/terrifying), and a relaxing covered communal area with fairy lights, hammock and hanging cocoon chair. Although the amenities are fairly basic, I fell in love with the crazy art along the exterior wall of the building that housed our rooms. I didn't get a chance to ask whose work it was, or what the speech bubbles said, but the weird little characters and colourful patterns added a fun&fresh appearance to an otherwise plain expanse of concrete. The views from the seating area are stunning, with haze-topped mountains covered in luscious green rolling away above the rice fields across the road. A lot quieter than the infamous Spicypai Backpackers hostel down the track opposite, Pai Highland Resort is perfect for a taste of the beautiful countryside away from the noisy streets of this small town.
Price: 300baht per night for a twin room
Find the hostel on Agoda
© All photos my own unless otherwise stated
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