Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts
Showing posts with label fashion. Show all posts

Saturday, March 28, 2015

Bristol 24/7 // Join the suede parade.

Read my first piece for Bristol 24/7 here.

No longer confined to the back racks of dusty charity shops of yore, the butterscotch hues of suede in all its strokable glory have returned to both our haute and high street in a burst of drool-worthy shapes and shades. This season’s infatuation with 1970s nostalgia has seen the return of flares, platform sandals, dreamy denim, bohemian romance, festival chic and more fringing than you can shake a tassel at. Yet if there’s one fabric that has scaled the summit in terms of being the most refreshingly surprising hit, suede is your gal. 

In the recent AW15 shows, shades of classic tan and caramel took centre stage, but for spring/summer the approach was more kaleidoscopic, with rich jewel tones and demure pastel neutrals - what could be better to chase away the melancholy winter blues and greys? Lavender purples, olive greens, deep sea blues and merlot reds sashayed down the catwalks, with the textile’s innate softness and structure lending the season an air of sensual sophistication. Derek Lam presented purple suede skirts with overcoat separates and belted dresses, evoking the 70’s vibe even more with patchwork pieces and contrast stitching. At Jason Wu we saw structured, sporty silhouettes in wrap coats and thigh-split dresses. Frida Giannini at Gucci gave us kimono-style tops, button-front A-line skirts and knee-high boots. I could go on with Chloe, Loewe, Tibi, Michael Kors, Valentino... But you get the picture. 

While suede might seem like a high maintenance, pricey option, it has truly earned its place as a trend to invest in. It can be worn all year round since becoming a seasonless wonder (much like leather), and we all know it’s true what they say - that higher quality means higher prices. Bruises in the fabric only add to its character, right? Otherwise, go second-hand and have a look on eBay or ASOS Marketplace for guaranteed bargain buys. By the end of the summer you will be no stranger to the suede parade, so why not embrace its ubiquitous revival and the irresistible, tactile luxury of the look.

If you’re still stuck on how to approach this trend, here are some handy hints:

Tint it // After the overexposure of leather in recent years, move away from blacks and greys and inject some colour into your wardrobe with this modern twist on throwback jackets, skirts and crops.

Layer it // Take a shortcut to the fash pack by layering your suede. Here you need to focus more on the tailoring and silhouette - avoid over the top retro connotations by balancing nostalgia with more modern pieces.

Fake it // If you don’t want to go the whole hog and would rather protect your pennies while still partaking in the trend, the brains on the high street have created numerous faux pieces that feel just as great but won’t break the bank. 

Green suede skirt - H&M, £79.99

Pink shift dress - Topshop, £60

Blue suede jacket - Mango, £89.99

Two-tone faux suede t-shirt - Zara, £25.99

Burgundy tassel bag - Deena and Ozzy at Urban Outfitters, £52

Platform shoes - Mango, £80

Faux suede cross back top - Rare at Topshop, £29

Suede shorts - Miss Selfridge, £55

Monday, March 16, 2015

Premium.

While doing some research for a suede trend piece I came across the lookbook for Mango's Spring 2015 Premium Limited Edition Collection. (NB: they are a one-stop destination if you want to join this season's 70's love-in). It isn't a label I normally turn to for inspiration but these looks are perfect: muted colourways and clean, simple lines with elegant finishes are photographed superbly in front of the contrasts of tumbling cacti and stark industrial spaces. Effective simplicity at its finest. The careful, minimalist dailywear draws on fashion's new silhouette with ankle-length hems, elongated draping, and unrestricted structures. Favourite items of mine include the jumpsuitwrap-back suede top, culottes, and asymmetric hem blouse.

Wednesday, February 25, 2015

ZERO // Giles.

Emerging under an archway of curling tendrils of foliage as if taking part in a nighttime liaison in the courtyards of a foreboding manor house, Giles AW15 provided a dark and brooding dose of drama fit for a gothic novel. Backstage, the designer spoke of his inspiration arising from time spent in Chelsea Physic Garden – a botanical site established in 1673 to study plants and their medicinal properties. He explained how the atmosphere of this peaceful and romantic space transformed from innocent to ominous depending on the light – especially at night.


Here at fashion week, we saw the result of that spine-tingling ambience: gothic, dreamlike proportions of statuesque dresses in satin and velvet, with crisp, Victorian neck ruffs and wrist cuffs, and exaggerated bows peppering the blouses and overcoats. The designer truly returned to his roots as a creator of dramatic pieces far from fit for a wallflower, with structured cocoons of fabric creating powerful and elegant silhouettes. Floating floor-length gowns fluttered under sharply tailored jackets, which were embroidered with fairytale mushrooms – embodying the haunting, fantastical feeling of the event. The impressive model line-up included the strong and striking characters of Erin O'Connor, Jessica Stam, Lily Donaldson, and Kendall Jenner – all sinister and sultry with dewy skin and dark lips, conjuring up a certain vampiric beauty no longer refined to the pages of an eerie tale. Masterfully moody and theatrical, the standout collection ultimately managed to romance its viewers by dancing and sweeping through the air like a velveted moth to a camera flash flame.

Originally published in ZERO Magazine.

ZERO // Phoebe English.

With a delicate sweep of shrimp netting and tulle, the Phoebe English collection revealed itself amongst obsolete electric fans, defunct radios and roughly cascading dust sheets in a raw, enigmatic environment which reflected the designer’s commitment to construction.

Photo by Josh Eustace

As per the creative ethos of the label, structure took precedent over decoration, with concentration firmly on the textiles and finishing of each design. Voluminous, ethereal layers of organza and calculatedly haphazard lines and hems on suede tailoring and cotton shirts created an unfinished but elegant aesthetic, emphasised by the tangled mesh drapery of the dresses and knotted velvet ropes. A predominance of black and white with the occasional muted pink allowed the textures and details to take centre stage, with a hint of glitter winking through the tulle like grains of sand in a beachgoer’s net. Similarly, the sparkling hair barrettes recalled unexpected items washed ashore with driftwood, appearing like lost treasure amongst the models’ slicked fringes and tousled tresses.

Bare upper arms peeked out from intricate contours of décolletage, while wrists were wrapped in separate sleeve garters in weightier latex. The juxtaposition of transparent gauze with more substantial structures lent the looks an air of daintiness while also appearing more rough and ready. Like a fragile fish entwined in a fisherman’s line, the collection’s marriage of delicate and disorderly signifies the designer’s attention to the labour of construction and her blossoming abilities as a young fashion talent. Emblematic of that Central Saint Martins grad pool of brilliance – particularly those who studied under the late Louise Wilson –  English makes you proud to be British.

Originally published in ZERO Magazine.

Monday, February 23, 2015

ZERO // Molly Goddard.

Here's a little something I wrote for ZERO Magazine. A London-based digital platform which encourages artistic vision and original perspectives, it publishes articles and blog posts on fashion, music, arts, and human interest.

LFW // Art Class with Molly Goddard

Looking back to Molly Goddard's 2012 Central Saint Martins BA final project, her work drew inspiration from the Spice Girls, Barbie, and a 90s school disco wardrobe. Now, her collection has emerged from adolescence and reached college age. As part of the Topshop backed NEWGEN crew at LFW, instead of simple static models showcasing her designs, Goddard turned the presentation of her AW15 line into a life drawing lesson as a nod towards girls coming straight to art class after an all-nighter at the student ball.

Photo via stylonylon

Using traditional handcraft techniques such as smocking and ruching she creates over-the-top party dresses in bold silhouettes and complex textures - indicating influence from internships at Meadham Kirchhoff and John Galliano. Embroidery and pleats are gathered among metres of tulle and taffeta as a wistful ode to teenage parties and special occasion attire; girly gowns now old enough for art school students. The young talent's frou-frou aesthetic instills a nostalgic reminiscence of childhood dressing up, held up perfectly by the charmingly awkward exaggerated structures and bold fabric selections. Pretty drop-waist and smock dresses were worn over wool knits with chunky creeper platforms to inject an effortless attitude into the look, while the aesthetic of messy mustard velvets and scruffy sheer greys made the fancy frocks more teen girl chic than chichi Sunday best. Combining the gaudy finery of adolescent ball gowns with a hint of grungy princess, the ripped frills and wide trousers under tulle created a feeling of unkempt glamour truly reminiscent of the morning after the night before - art school style.

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Sunday crushing.

Alexis Foreman of Style Memos is a blogger, graphic designer, and mother of three living in Brighton, sporting one of the most enviable messy bobs out there. I'm not ashamed to say I am in love with her wardrobe, her home, and her hallmark matte red lip. Popping up on Instagram with a bold #OOTD, dreamy colour palette, or smiling on the streets of her neighbourhood, you can see why she has been dubbed as an #ARWOMAN by Atterley Road; both empowered and empowering. Reading the interview you get an idea for her humour and creativity - exuding an effortless cool, she is now firmly seated at the top of my blogger favourites. Her style leans towards simple tailoring which is accessible but still high quality, with regular fixtures including COS, &OtherStories, and Whistles. So far so perfect. Next you add platform slip-ons, wide leg trousers, and boxy coats and you have the perfect backdrop for original accessories and jewellery (and of course the poppy-red pout). A woman after my own heart, she adds a more playful slant with items like a statement Whistles furry clutch, acting on the mantra of "don't leave your best for best". Her favoured beauty brands, her eye for detail, and her outfits which manage to be androgynous yet feminine mean I now find inspiration all over her blog: lipstick, kitchen, and super strong sunglasses game alike. 
Style Memos is also now dipping her toe in the vlogger pool, with a Youtube channel starting to fill up with beauty tips including ones for her luscious locks and scarlet lips. I'm sure there will be lots more to come.


Wednesday, February 4, 2015

Coat up.

Pics from Style Memos/Camille Over the Rainbow/The Road/Tumblr

As a downright devotee of all things oversized, anything with a hint of magnified proportions that also happens to keep my still-scrawny behind shielded from the elements is nothing short of a hit with me. Welcome to the scene, then, the midi-coat. Wool, alpaca, mohair, or a mixture of all and more, the boxy/longline/dropped-shoulders look has set my wishlist alight, with a large majority of ASOS' outerwear section amassed in my saved items box. While the more lightweight duster coats will be perfect for the coming warmer (pff) spring months, the freezing temperatures still set to scorn us in the more immediate future require a cover slightly more insulating. There's something quite comforting about the weighty structure of a calf-length coat sweeping around your stems as you stride through the cold, especially with the current tendency toward flashing ankles/'flanking' (or in my case, just the wrong length of jeans). You might as well enwrap all other areas to make up for the bitter numbness of those poor two inches of flesh above your feet. 

Current favourites among the ASOS incarnations include:


Friday, December 5, 2014

A crustacean love letter.

This morning I fell so hard it almost hurts. Luckily I am not referring to a mishap in my precarious re-learning of how to climb the stairs (or even the far more difficult mission of coming back down), but rather my metaphorical tumble head over heels into love with faux-fur fashion label Shrimps.

Hannah Weiland of Shrimps, photo via i-D

Entitled so after the designer's childhood nickname ("because I was pink and small!"), the fabulous fuzziness and cartoony colour combinations of each creation boosts the mood of not only the wearer but also anyone who bears witness to these vibrant incarnations of cosiness and cool. Turns out a garment can have both edge and fluff.

Although I had seen the unmistakeable outerwear among the street-style-papped patrons of London Fashion week in February, my initial ignorance of the brand might have had something to do with my focus back then being more towards planning a six month trip to a part of the world where the thought of wearing a sweater - let alone a coat - would have been ludicrous. However, now I have been firmly planted back in the midst of a grey British winter, an injection of warmth and happiness in cuddly coat form would be more than welcome. Safe to say, I am besotted.

Laura Bailey
Kate Foley
Natalie Massanet
Photos via theguardian

It all began this morning when my curiosity was piqued during a perusal of Instagram, when I saw that the amazing Susie Bubble had posted a picture of one of the most perfect gift boxes I have ever seen. This turned out to be a package covered in doodles from the Shrimps x Poplin silk pjs collaboration, and contained a vision of fluffy exuberance that is a Shrimps coat and clutch.  My yearning for Bubble's heavenly hamper led me to locate the brand's website in all its shrimp-cursored glory, with its tongue-in-cheek lookbooks and witty Instagram account underpinning the pastel-hued design delight of this relatively small but brilliant label. Permeating the brand is the classic sass of the British GSOH; essential for glueing together the bubblegum colours and classic sixties collars with an offbeat eccentricity, and exemplified in the notable inspiration taken from the designer's favourite artist Grayson Perry, collage maestro Eduardo Paolozzi, retro candy, and childhood cartoons.

With all of the above now very much at the top of my dream wish list, Shrimps' SS15 collection further epitomises the ubiquitous edgy grace of London Girl cool. Let's be honest, we still need outerwear for the so-called British 'summer', and who wouldn't want to brighten that faux season with a faux selection of canary yellow/parma violet/sky blue/bubblegum pink? So let us give thanks that Hannah Weiland, aka the Goddess of seafood-dubbed sartorial sensations, is here to stay.

Thursday, November 20, 2014

A find.


Bath is known for its vast selection of contemporary independent boutiques, despite its compact size and traditional Georgian heritage. As a city paved with mini wonder emporiums, luckily you come across far more hits than misses - particularly if you're looking for divine homeware or one of a kind jewellery. One of my favourites is the intimate and unique space of Found on Argyle Street, across the infamously beautiful Pulteney Bridge and a stone's throw away from the better-trodden shopping avenues of the town centre. The first time I found this place (ha ha) was to exchange a ring my brother gave me last Christmas for another size (for some reason my main area of weight fluctuation seems to be my fingers). The light, airy, Scandi-esque interior adheres to both function and imagination, with the colourful stock popping from the alcoves and rails. Including a quirky mix of brands which range in style from the classic to the contemporary, the items are refreshingly diverse in description but consistent in quality. In the boutique, presented inside, upon, and hanging from the pleasingly mismatched wooden furnishings and fixtures are carefully curated collections of impeccable stationery, delicate minimal jewellery, vibrant accessories and offbeat mens and womenswear ranging in cost from pocket money to a pretty penny. So whether you wish to purchase or simply peruse, Found is the perfect find.

Photos via their website

Here are a few of my favourite pieces you can find online, with plenty more in store. 
Follow them @foundbath for new stock and upcoming collections.
I think my Christmas list just got quite a bit longer.
My beloved Karen Walker Rabbit Ring, £45

Essential Il Sacchetto Storage Sack, £19.50

Large House Candle, £4.40

Aqua Green Stripe Straws, £3.60

The Great Northern Hotel Key Ring, £5.50

Animaux Writing Paper, £12.50

Karen Walker Northern Lights Crazy Tortoiseshell Sunglasses, £165

YMC Clover Club Shoe, was £195 now £125

Twenty Seven Names Boardwalk Dress, £149

Karen Walker Hiding Cat Sweater, £110