ZERO // Giles.

Emerging under an archway of curling tendrils of foliage as if taking part in a nighttime liaison in the courtyards of a foreboding manor house, Giles AW15 provided a dark and brooding dose of drama fit for a gothic novel. Backstage, the designer spoke of his inspiration arising from time spent in Chelsea Physic Garden – a botanical site established in 1673 to study plants and their medicinal properties. He explained how the atmosphere of this peaceful and romantic space transformed from innocent to ominous depending on the light – especially at night.

Here at fashion week, we saw the result of that spine-tingling ambience: gothic, dreamlike proportions of statuesque dresses in satin and velvet, with crisp, Victorian neck ruffs and wrist cuffs, and exaggerated bows peppering the blouses and overcoats. The designer truly returned to his roots as a creator of dramatic pieces far from fit for a wallflower, with structured cocoons of fabric creating powerful and elegant silhouettes. Floating floor-length gowns fluttered under sharply tailored jackets, which were embroidered with fairytale mushrooms – embodying the haunting, fantastical feeling of the event. The impressive model line-up included the strong and striking characters of Erin O'Connor, Jessica Stam, Lily Donaldson, and Kendall Jenner – all sinister and sultry with dewy skin and dark lips, conjuring up a certain vampiric beauty no longer refined to the pages of an eerie tale. Masterfully moody and theatrical, the standout collection ultimately managed to romance its viewers by dancing and sweeping through the air like a velveted moth to a camera flash flame.

Originally published in ZERO Magazine.

ZERO // Phoebe English.

With a delicate sweep of shrimp netting and tulle, the Phoebe English collection revealed itself amongst obsolete electric fans, defunct radios and roughly cascading dust sheets in a raw, enigmatic environment which reflected the designer’s commitment to construction.

Photo by Josh Eustace

As per the creative ethos of the label, structure took precedent over decoration, with concentration firmly on the textiles and finishing of each design. Voluminous, ethereal layers of organza and calculatedly haphazard lines and hems on suede tailoring and cotton shirts created an unfinished but elegant aesthetic, emphasised by the tangled mesh drapery of the dresses and knotted velvet ropes. A predominance of black and white with the occasional muted pink allowed the textures and details to take centre stage, with a hint of glitter winking through the tulle like grains of sand in a beachgoer’s net. Similarly, the sparkling hair barrettes recalled unexpected items washed ashore with driftwood, appearing like lost treasure amongst the models’ slicked fringes and tousled tresses.

Bare upper arms peeked out from intricate contours of décolletage, while wrists were wrapped in separate sleeve garters in weightier latex. The juxtaposition of transparent gauze with more substantial structures lent the looks an air of daintiness while also appearing more rough and ready. Like a fragile fish entwined in a fisherman’s line, the collection’s marriage of delicate and disorderly signifies the designer’s attention to the labour of construction and her blossoming abilities as a young fashion talent. Emblematic of that Central Saint Martins grad pool of brilliance – particularly those who studied under the late Louise Wilson –  English makes you proud to be British.

Originally published in ZERO Magazine.

ZERO // Molly Goddard.

Here's a little something I wrote for ZERO Magazine. A London-based digital platform which encourages artistic vision and original perspectives, it publishes articles and blog posts on fashion, music, arts, and human interest.

LFW // Art Class with Molly Goddard

Looking back to Molly Goddard's 2012 Central Saint Martins BA final project, her work drew inspiration from the Spice Girls, Barbie, and a 90s school disco wardrobe. Now, her collection has emerged from adolescence and reached college age. As part of the Topshop backed NEWGEN crew at LFW, instead of simple static models showcasing her designs, Goddard turned the presentation of her AW15 line into a life drawing lesson as a nod towards girls coming straight to art class after an all-nighter at the student ball.

Photo via stylonylon

Using traditional handcraft techniques such as smocking and ruching she creates over-the-top party dresses in bold silhouettes and complex textures - indicating influence from internships at Meadham Kirchhoff and John Galliano. Embroidery and pleats are gathered among metres of tulle and taffeta as a wistful ode to teenage parties and special occasion attire; girly gowns now old enough for art school students. The young talent's frou-frou aesthetic instills a nostalgic reminiscence of childhood dressing up, held up perfectly by the charmingly awkward exaggerated structures and bold fabric selections. Pretty drop-waist and smock dresses were worn over wool knits with chunky creeper platforms to inject an effortless attitude into the look, while the aesthetic of messy mustard velvets and scruffy sheer greys made the fancy frocks more teen girl chic than chichi Sunday best. Combining the gaudy finery of adolescent ball gowns with a hint of grungy princess, the ripped frills and wide trousers under tulle created a feeling of unkempt glamour truly reminiscent of the morning after the night before - art school style.

Sunday crushing.

Alexis Foreman of Style Memos is a blogger, graphic designer, and mother of three living in Brighton, sporting one of the most enviable messy bobs out there. I'm not ashamed to say I am in love with her wardrobe, her home, and her hallmark matte red lip. Popping up on Instagram with a bold #OOTD, dreamy colour palette, or smiling on the streets of her neighbourhood, you can see why she has been dubbed as an #ARWOMAN by Atterley Road; both empowered and empowering. Reading the interview you get an idea for her humour and creativity - exuding an effortless cool, she is now firmly seated at the top of my blogger favourites. Her style leans towards simple tailoring which is accessible but still high quality, with regular fixtures including COS, &OtherStories, and Whistles. So far so perfect. Next you add platform slip-ons, wide leg trousers, and boxy coats and you have the perfect backdrop for original accessories and jewellery (and of course the poppy-red pout). A woman after my own heart, she adds a more playful slant with items like a statement Whistles furry clutch, acting on the mantra of "don't leave your best for best". Her favoured beauty brands, her eye for detail, and her outfits which manage to be androgynous yet feminine mean I now find inspiration all over her blog: lipstick, kitchen, and super strong sunglasses game alike. 

Style Memos is also now dipping her toe in the vlogger pool, with a Youtube channel starting to fill up with beauty tips including ones for her luscious locks and scarlet lips. I'm sure there will be lots more to come.

Vday Bday.

I have heard many opinions on the pros and cons of having a birthday on Valentine's Day. They range from the "How sweet, a love baby!" to the "Oh God poor you - must be like having it on Christmas." Valentine's is a funny one. Loved and hated by people on all points of the couple/single spectrum, you get the overexcited individuals intent on emblazoning their undying love to the world (or across every crevice of Facebook), and then the slightly reluctant pairs coerced into exchanging a dozen red roses/sad-looking teddy bears/slightly uncomfortable and mildly offensive underwear. Whether you dismiss it as a Hallmark holiday, a date to drink and denounce an awful ex, or a time to show your appreciation for your other half via the medium of of bubbles and chocolate, for me it's always just a bonus in the background. Whether spoken for or unattached, every time the holiday comes around I have the infallible love of friends and family, with or without a man. Who needs cupid when you're sure to get a cake?

In this case, though, I did happen to have un homme handy on the oft-dreaded day of doting. Le Boyfriend and I thought that, considering the utter bulls*** that was the latter end of last year, my 23rd birthday was sort of something to celebrate. Regardless of the pretty inconsequential age I was reaching, my progress in the last two months from wheelchair to being able to walk around a city over a long weekend was pretty exciting. Budapest had been on my 'to-vist' list for a while, and after learning the humble price of wine we decided on the up and coming capital of Hungary.

Eclectic, unpretentious, striking, and expressive, it's now one of my favourite European cities. The centre unfurls its unique heritage by offering a maze of cafes, art galleries, and markets, peppered with intriguing street art and unexpected alcoves. The impressive official buildings like the Hungarian Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica and the Fisherman's Bastion make you feel as if you are stepping into another realm, surrounded by gilded golden archways and fairytale stone carvings. The prices are jaw-droppingly low compared to most European destinations - namely the food, drink, travel, and accommodation. We went with Airbnb and it was perfect in terms of quality, value, location, hospitality... I could go on. You should look up our lovely hostess Adrienn if you are looking for somewhere cheap but still brilliant (complete with wine, chocolates, and a shiny, light-up, piping hot shower). There are also some amazing boutique hotels like the super cool Brody House or Baltazar Hotel - still pennies compared to those in some cities but more expensive than an independent apartment. Both of these also have a bar/bistro, so you can still check out the bohemian vibe of the former and its in-house artists and designers, or the Warhol and Keith Haring inspired interiors of the latter.

I hardly need to state that food is for many people one of the most exciting things about visiting somewhere new. Admittedly we didn't get to try the classic native gulyás (that's goulash to you and me), but the country seems to be very fond of pasta and cakes which is a gold star in my books. There's a huge mishmash of cuisines in the city, with great Asian, Italian and Middle Eastern as well as traditional Hungarian dishes and their hearty scents wafting around every other corner. In that vein, here is one of my favourite places that we found, and a few more suggestions to bookmark should you decide on a hop over to Hungary.

Mazel Tov

If you want something a bit more polished than the infamously wild Pest ruin pubs, wander through the old Jewish Quarter of District VII to find Mazel Tov which opened last summer. A slightly finer breed of bar, the venue is hidden in a previously deserted brick building on Akácfa Street 4. Once inside, the huge wooden skylight, hanging exposed lightbulbs and chic crunchy gravel transport you far away from the nondescript street and into an alfresco dining paradise. 

A complimentary glass of mint tea as we sat down at our little bar table (every single other was booked, even on a Thursday), and we were presented with menus bursting with options for every eating persuasion. For vegetarian, vegan, or carnivore, the Middle Eastern and North African-inspired selection and excellent service make for a heavenly dining experience. I went for the Moroccan spiced sausage on pita with tahini, carrot salad and grilled beetroot, and we shared an enormous board of homemade chips with a spicy tomato dip. Un. Believable. All that nosh plus two glasses of wine each and we almost thought it must be a joke when the bill came to about £20. Still possibly a little more expensive than other places in the city, but laughable when considering what the equivalent location might cost if in London or Paris.

While we were eating there was a traditional Hungarian folk band playing - they also hold concerts, exhibitions, open discussions, and international DJs, so it might be worth having a look at their website in advance to see what's on.   

Photos from their Facebook

The streets both side of the Danube are teeming with eateries and watering holes to fuel up and/or get merry at, but here are a few places we visited that I would pass on with plenty of praise.

Hummus Bar - Budapest's ambassadors of Middle Eastern street food.

I ate: shakshuka pita wrap with hummus - tomato, peppers and onions cooked in spices with a poached egg.

Spiler Shanghai - if you want lively music and a buzzing atmosphere.

I ate: sweet and spicy pork belly burger with homemade chips and wasabi mayo.

New York Cafe - full of tourists but it has the most beautiful candy-coloured architecture and ceiling frescos.

I ate: French fries and a vanilla milkshake. (Sophisticated, me?)

Robinson Restaurant - the most perfect Valentine's Day dinner; sublime lakeside dining.

I ate: homemade gnocchi and chicken breast with rocket salad and mozzarella.

Followed by: chestnut chocolate cake with raspberry sorbet and whipped cream.

A table! Boulangerie & Patisserie - adorable little cafe with beautifully presented cakes and tarts.

I ate: mille-feuille and a white hot chocolate.

Photos not my own

The Great Beauty.

“This is how it always ends. With death. But first there was life, hidden beneath the blah, blah, blah... It's all settled beneath the chitter chatter and the noise, silence and sentiment, emotion and fear. The haggard, inconstant flashes of beauty”.

One of the films mentioned in passing on my list of top bedbound viewings was the aptly-named feature entitled The Great Beauty (La Grande Belleza in Italian). I watched it way back when my toes had not yet touched the ground since the accident, but it has stayed with me in numerous ways beyond that single experience. 

Without going into its entire long list of accolades, Paolo Sorrentino's film secured the crème de la crème of foreign film laurels at the Golden Globe, BAFTA and Oscar Awards in its year of distribution, 2013. Although not a current theatre release, I write this as a post-dated appreciation in the off-chance that it has somehow passed under your radar. This ambitious and enthralling work of art provides an insight into the human condition and the world in which it inhabits with a vision that is somehow simultaneously opulent and understated. The director and cinematographer encapsulate both the smallest detail and the most overt statement of beauty and grace - from the introspective contemplation of fear to the extravagant classical Italian architecture, we are coaxed into revelling in life's passions and regrets with every turn of the protagonist through the rapturous crowds and tranquil courtyards of Rome. 

Jep Gambardella, an ageing socialite and celebrity writer of a single novel decades previously, reaches his 65th birthday with all the grandeur and debauchery expected of society's most seasoned party-goers. Yet behind this electric revelry is not only the desire to live but the desire to be valued; approaching their own irrelevance these sixty-somethings are desperate just to matter. The film follows Gambardella's own journey, via art, music, saints, parties and philosophies, in coming to terms with his past and his future, his friends and his foes, in order to free himself from the anxieties over his own destiny. With bitterness-tinged passion The Great Beauty follows an often surreal, dreamlike logic, which, combined with the glaring glamour and magnificence of each framed shot, regales a strange, vivid and eloquent tale of one man's search for himself.

NB: if you are in need of some inspiration for your next European city break, then watching this film will leave you itching to visit Rome and explore its decadent palazzos and hushed, hidden cloisters. Whet your appetite with some of the most iconic locations from the film here.  

Coat up.

Pics from Style Memos/Camille Over the Rainbow/The Road/Tumblr

As a downright devotee of all things oversized, anything with a hint of magnified proportions that also happens to keep my still-scrawny behind shielded from the elements is nothing short of a hit with me. Welcome to the scene, then, the midi-coat. Wool, alpaca, mohair, or a mixture of all and more, the boxy/longline/dropped-shoulders look has set my wishlist alight, with a large majority of ASOS' outerwear section amassed in my saved items box. While the more lightweight duster coats will be perfect for the coming warmer (pff) spring months, the freezing temperatures still set to scorn us in the more immediate future require a cover slightly more insulating. There's something quite comforting about the weighty structure of a calf-length coat sweeping around your stems as you stride through the cold, especially with the current tendency toward flashing ankles/'flanking' (or in my case, just the wrong length of jeans). You might as well enwrap all other areas to make up for the bitter numbness of those poor two inches of flesh above your feet. 

Current favourites among the ASOS incarnations include:

 ASOS Coat in Relaxed Oversized Fit

 ASOS Duster Coat In Textured Wool

ASOS WHITE Mohair Wool Mix Cocoon Coat