alt: Vday Bday.

I have heard many opinions on the pros and cons of having a birthday on Valentine's Day. They range from the "How sweet, a love baby!" to the "Oh God poor you - must be like having it on Christmas." Valentine's is a funny one. Loved and hated by people on all points of the couple/single spectrum, you get the overexcited individuals intent on emblazoning their undying love to the world (or across every crevice of Facebook), and then the slightly reluctant pairs coerced into exchanging a dozen red roses/sad-looking teddy bears/slightly uncomfortable and mildly offensive underwear. Whether you dismiss it as a Hallmark holiday, a date to drink and denounce an awful ex, or a time to show your appreciation for your other half via the medium of of bubbles and chocolate, for me it's always just a bonus in the background. Whether spoken for or unattached, every time the holiday comes around I have the infallible love of friends and family, with or without a man. Who needs cupid when you're sure to get a cake?

In this case, though, I did happen to have un homme handy on the oft-dreaded day of doting. Le Boyfriend and I thought that, considering the utter bulls*** that was the latter end of last year, my 23rd birthday was sort of something to celebrate. Regardless of the pretty inconsequential age I was reaching, my progress in the last two months from wheelchair to being able to walk around a city over a long weekend was pretty exciting. Budapest had been on my 'to-vist' list for a while, and after learning the humble price of wine we decided on the up and coming capital of Hungary.

Eclectic, unpretentious, striking, and expressive, it's now one of my favourite European cities. The centre unfurls its unique heritage by offering a maze of cafes, art galleries, and markets, peppered with intriguing street art and unexpected alcoves. The impressive official buildings like the Hungarian Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica and the Fisherman's Bastion make you feel as if you are stepping into another realm, surrounded by gilded golden archways and fairytale stone carvings. The prices are jaw-droppingly low compared to most European destinations - namely the food, drink, travel, and accommodation. We went with Airbnb and it was perfect in terms of quality, value, location, hospitality... I could go on. You should look up our lovely hostess Adrienn if you are looking for somewhere cheap but still brilliant (complete with wine, chocolates, and a shiny, light-up, piping hot shower). There are also some amazing boutique hotels like the super cool Brody House or Baltazar Hotel - still pennies compared to those in some cities but more expensive than an independent apartment. Both of these also have a bar/bistro, so you can still check out the bohemian vibe of the former and its in-house artists and designers, or the Warhol and Keith Haring inspired interiors of the latter.

I hardly need to state that food is for many people one of the most exciting things about visiting somewhere new. Admittedly we didn't get to try the classic native gulyás (that's goulash to you and me), but the country seems to be very fond of pasta and cakes which is a gold star in my books. There's a huge mishmash of cuisines in the city, with great Asian, Italian and Middle Eastern as well as traditional Hungarian dishes and their hearty scents wafting around every other corner. In that vein, here is one of my favourite places that we found, and a few more suggestions to bookmark should you decide on a hop over to Hungary.

Mazel Tov

If you want something a bit more polished than the infamously wild Pest ruin pubs, wander through the old Jewish Quarter of District VII to find Mazel Tov which opened last summer. A slightly finer breed of bar, the venue is hidden in a previously deserted brick building on Akácfa Street 4. Once inside, the huge wooden skylight, hanging exposed lightbulbs and chic crunchy gravel transport you far away from the nondescript street and into an alfresco dining paradise.

A complimentary glass of mint tea as we sat down at our little bar table (every single other was booked, even on a Thursday), and we were presented with menus bursting with options for every eating persuasion. For vegetarian, vegan, or carnivore, the Middle Eastern and North African-inspired selection and excellent service make for a heavenly dining experience. I went for the Moroccan spiced sausage on pita with tahini, carrot salad and grilled beetroot, and we shared an enormous board of homemade chips with a spicy tomato dip. Un. Believable. All that nosh plus two glasses of wine each and we almost thought it must be a joke when the bill came to about £20. Still possibly a little more expensive than other places in the city, but laughable when considering what the equivalent location might cost if in London or Paris.

While we were eating there was a traditional Hungarian folk band playing - they also hold concerts, exhibitions, open discussions, and international DJs, so it might be worth having a look at their website in advance to see what's on.

Photos from their Facebook

The streets both side of the Danube are teeming with eateries and watering holes to fuel up and/or get merry at, but here are a few places we visited that I would pass on with plenty of praise.

Hummus Bar - Budapest's ambassadors of Middle Eastern street food.

I ate: shakshuka pita wrap with hummus - tomato, peppers and onions cooked in spices with a poached egg.