Vday Bday.

I have heard many opinions on the pros and cons of having a birthday on Valentine's Day. They range from the "How sweet, a love baby!" to the "Oh God poor you - must be like having it on Christmas." Valentine's is a funny one. Loved and hated by people on all points of the couple/single spectrum, you get the overexcited individuals intent on emblazoning their undying love to the world (or across every crevice of Facebook), and then the slightly reluctant pairs coerced into exchanging a dozen red roses/sad-looking teddy bears/slightly uncomfortable and mildly offensive underwear. Whether you dismiss it as a Hallmark holiday, a date to drink and denounce an awful ex, or a time to show your appreciation for your other half via the medium of of bubbles and chocolate, for me it's always just a bonus in the background. Whether spoken for or unattached, every time the holiday comes around I have the infallible love of friends and family, with or without a man. Who needs cupid when you're sure to get a cake?

In this case, though, I did happen to have un homme handy on the oft-dreaded day of doting. Le Boyfriend and I thought that, considering the utter bulls*** that was the latter end of last year, my 23rd birthday was sort of something to celebrate. Regardless of the pretty inconsequential age I was reaching, my progress in the last two months from wheelchair to being able to walk around a city over a long weekend was pretty exciting. Budapest had been on my 'to-vist' list for a while, and after learning the humble price of wine we decided on the up and coming capital of Hungary.

Eclectic, unpretentious, striking, and expressive, it's now one of my favourite European cities. The centre unfurls its unique heritage by offering a maze of cafes, art galleries, and markets, peppered with intriguing street art and unexpected alcoves. The impressive official buildings like the Hungarian Parliament, St. Stephen's Basilica and the Fisherman's Bastion make you feel as if you are stepping into another realm, surrounded by gilded golden archways and fairytale stone carvings. The prices are jaw-droppingly low compared to most European destinations - namely the food, drink, travel, and accommodation. We went with Airbnb and it was perfect in terms of quality, value, location, hospitality... I could go on. You should look up our lovely hostess Adrienn if you are looking for somewhere cheap but still brilliant (complete with wine, chocolates, and a shiny, light-up, piping hot shower). There are also some amazing boutique hotels like the super cool Brody House or Baltazar Hotel - still pennies compared to those in some cities but more expensive than an independent apartment. Both of these also have a bar/bistro, so you can still check out the bohemian vibe of the former and its in-house artists and designers, or the Warhol and Keith Haring inspired interiors of the latter.

I hardly need to state that food is for many people one of the most exciting things about visiting somewhere new. Admittedly we didn't get to try the classic native gulyás (that's goulash to you and me), but the country seems to be very fond of pasta and cakes which is a gold star in my books. There's a huge mishmash of cuisines in the city, with great Asian, Italian and Middle Eastern as well as traditional Hungarian dishes and their hearty scents wafting around every other corner. In that vein, here is one of my favourite places that we found, and a few more suggestions to bookmark should you decide on a hop over to Hungary.

Mazel Tov

If you want something a bit more polished than the infamously wild Pest ruin pubs, wander through the old Jewish Quarter of District VII to find Mazel Tov which opened last summer. A slightly finer breed of bar, the venue is hidden in a previously deserted brick building on Akácfa Street 4. Once inside, the huge wooden skylight, hanging exposed lightbulbs and chic crunchy gravel transport you far away from the nondescript street and into an alfresco dining paradise. 

A complimentary glass of mint tea as we sat down at our little bar table (every single other was booked, even on a Thursday), and we were presented with menus bursting with options for every eating persuasion. For vegetarian, vegan, or carnivore, the Middle Eastern and North African-inspired selection and excellent service make for a heavenly dining experience. I went for the Moroccan spiced sausage on pita with tahini, carrot salad and grilled beetroot, and we shared an enormous board of homemade chips with a spicy tomato dip. Un. Believable. All that nosh plus two glasses of wine each and we almost thought it must be a joke when the bill came to about £20. Still possibly a little more expensive than other places in the city, but laughable when considering what the equivalent location might cost if in London or Paris.

While we were eating there was a traditional Hungarian folk band playing - they also hold concerts, exhibitions, open discussions, and international DJs, so it might be worth having a look at their website in advance to see what's on.   

Photos from their Facebook

The streets both side of the Danube are teeming with eateries and watering holes to fuel up and/or get merry at, but here are a few places we visited that I would pass on with plenty of praise.

Hummus Bar - Budapest's ambassadors of Middle Eastern street food.

I ate: shakshuka pita wrap with hummus - tomato, peppers and onions cooked in spices with a poached egg.

Spiler Shanghai - if you want lively music and a buzzing atmosphere.

I ate: sweet and spicy pork belly burger with homemade chips and wasabi mayo.

New York Cafe - full of tourists but it has the most beautiful candy-coloured architecture and ceiling frescos.

I ate: French fries and a vanilla milkshake. (Sophisticated, me?)

Robinson Restaurant - the most perfect Valentine's Day dinner; sublime lakeside dining.

I ate: homemade gnocchi and chicken breast with rocket salad and mozzarella.

Followed by: chestnut chocolate cake with raspberry sorbet and whipped cream.

A table! Boulangerie & Patisserie - adorable little cafe with beautifully presented cakes and tarts.

I ate: mille-feuille and a white hot chocolate.

Photos not my own

A find.

Bath is known for its vast selection of contemporary independent boutiques, despite its compact size and traditional Georgian heritage. As a city paved with mini wonder emporiums, luckily you come across far more hits than misses - particularly if you're looking for divine homeware or one of a kind jewellery. One of my favourites is the intimate and unique space of Found on Argyle Street, across the infamously beautiful Pulteney Bridge and a stone's throw away from the better-trodden shopping avenues of the town centre. The first time I found this place (ha ha) was to exchange a ring my brother gave me last Christmas for another size (for some reason my main area of weight fluctuation seems to be my fingers). The light, airy, Scandi-esque interior adheres to both function and imagination, with the colourful stock popping from the alcoves and rails. Including a quirky mix of brands which range in style from the classic to the contemporary, the items are refreshingly diverse in description but consistent in quality. In the boutique, presented inside, upon, and hanging from the pleasingly mismatched wooden furnishings and fixtures are carefully curated collections of impeccable stationery, delicate minimal jewellery, vibrant accessories and offbeat mens and womenswear ranging in cost from pocket money to a pretty penny. So whether you wish to purchase or simply peruse, Found is the perfect find.

Photos via their website

Here are a few of my favourite pieces you can find online, with plenty more in store. 
Follow them @foundbath for new stock and upcoming collections.
I think my Christmas list just got quite a bit longer.

My beloved Karen Walker Rabbit Ring, £45

Essential Il Sacchetto Storage Sack, £19.50

Large House Candle, £4.40

Aqua Green Stripe Straws, £3.60

The Great Northern Hotel Key Ring, £5.50

Animaux Writing Paper, £12.50

Karen Walker Northern Lights Crazy Tortoiseshell Sunglasses, £165

YMC Clover Club Shoe, was £195 now £125

Twenty Seven Names Boardwalk Dress, £149

Karen Walker Hiding Cat Sweater, £110

Ten days.

The long awaited dream of a Southeast Asian adventure came and, somewhat abruptly, went. A minor/major incident between our minibus, a 4x4 and a temple wall meant my friends and I are back in England a bit sooner than planned. All the breakages seem to be healing okay, even if my hopes for a Christmas spent in the sea with a snorkel and on a yoga mat in the sand have been slightly scuppered. Although we only made ten days in Thailand - Bangkok, Pai and Chiang Mai - I did still manage to take a few pictures.

Bangkok Khlongs, boat trip

Chiang Mai noodles

Pai Canyon

Viharn next to Wat Chedi Luang, Chiang Mai

Thien Art Space, Pai (amazing bar and restaurant, look here)

Wat Phan Tao, Chiang Mai

Love Strawberry Pai, strawberry farm

Bewel Hostel, Bangkok

As our first destination from the airport, this was where Gerry and I were reunited with Natalie and Charlie after they left us in Leeds nine months previously. Maybe it was a combination of the long-haul flight, the jet lag, and the wall of super sweaty midday heat, or maybe it was the girls emerging brown and barefoot to greet us and the way the tranquil air-conditioned space invited us in from the confusing Bangkok streets, but Bewel seemed like some sort of oasis or dream; surreal and beautiful. It is a tranquil haven, only a ten minute walk from the Khao San road but without any of the manic bustle and noise. Owned by charming Frenchman Gerard, the hostel feels like something you would find in Ibiza, but without the pretensions (or the price tag). The walls throughout are painted that white that is cool but not cold, and the second floor lounge area is filled with mismatched furniture and slouchy beanbags complemented by the low ceiling and exposed wooden staircase. The shared areas are simple yet stylish, with a decor mixing Thai and French drawings, posters and paintings, and the dorm we stayed in was light and airy. If I ever found myself in Bangkok again there is no doubt I would stay here.

We paid a slightly discounted price for reduced shower access as a couple were being renovated, but from what I remember the usual rate in a dorm is about 300baht per night (just under £6).
Included in the price is a simple breakfast, drinking water, tea and coffee, a shared tv and computer, secure luggage storage and lockers in the room.  

  Find the hostel on Facebook and TripAdvisor

Graph Cafe, Chiang Mai

(Photo by Graph Cafe)

If I had to put forward a coffee shop in my experience that came under the heading of 'hidden gem', Graph Cafe would have to be the one. Wandering through the back streets of Chiang Mai, among hostels, tiny local restaurants and stray dogs, we came across this maven of cool and caffeine around the corner from some washing machines we were using. Far from the usual hippie traveller character of many places you come across, this cafe is host to trendy minimal decor and a coffee machine/prep station any budding barista would salivate over. We were served by a lovely Thai guy in thick black rimmed glasses and a breton shirt, who made some excellent bagels (not a common baked good in Thailand) and even better lattes. Graph is one of the smallest cafes I think I have ever been to - the four of us only just fit into the space with a friendly, elegant lady from Bangkok at the other table, as Bretonshirt and his friend (who was fixing Charlie's camera) squeezed past us. But this is far from a negative, as it makes you feel like you've dropped in at a friend's house, sitting in their front room chatting or reading the newspapers and magazines available on top of the glass cabinets. Camera fixed and caffeine cravings satiated, we filed outside as another woman waited by the window to let us pass and not box us in like sardines. Verdict: small but perfectly formed.   

Find the cafe on Facebook

Pai Highland Resort, Pai

About fifteen minutes on foot from the main walking street of Pai and its busy bars and restaurants, this hostel gives the option of twin rooms or cute little individual cabins. In the interest of budgeting we went with the former, but when that option allows you to pay less than £3 each to share with a friend and have an ensuite bathroom thrown in too, you can't really complain. There is plenty of space for hired mopeds (exhilarating/terrifying), and a relaxing covered communal area with fairy lights, hammock and hanging cocoon chair. Although the amenities are fairly basic, I fell in love with the crazy art along the exterior wall of the building that housed our rooms. I didn't get a chance to ask whose work it was, or what the speech bubbles said, but the weird little characters and colourful patterns added a fun&fresh appearance to an otherwise plain expanse of concrete. The views from the seating area are stunning, with haze-topped mountains covered in luscious green rolling away above the rice fields across the road. A lot quieter than the infamous Spicypai Backpackers hostel down the track opposite, Pai Highland Resort is perfect for a taste of the beautiful countryside away from the noisy streets of this small town.

Price: 300baht per night for a twin room

Find the hostel on Agoda

© All photos my own unless otherwise stated