ZERO // Giles.

Emerging under an archway of curling tendrils of foliage as if taking part in a nighttime liaison in the courtyards of a foreboding manor house, Giles AW15 provided a dark and brooding dose of drama fit for a gothic novel. Backstage, the designer spoke of his inspiration arising from time spent in Chelsea Physic Garden – a botanical site established in 1673 to study plants and their medicinal properties. He explained how the atmosphere of this peaceful and romantic space transformed from innocent to ominous depending on the light – especially at night.

Here at fashion week, we saw the result of that spine-tingling ambience: gothic, dreamlike proportions of statuesque dresses in satin and velvet, with crisp, Victorian neck ruffs and wrist cuffs, and exaggerated bows peppering the blouses and overcoats. The designer truly returned to his roots as a creator of dramatic pieces far from fit for a wallflower, with structured cocoons of fabric creating powerful and elegant silhouettes. Floating floor-length gowns fluttered under sharply tailored jackets, which were embroidered with fairytale mushrooms – embodying the haunting, fantastical feeling of the event. The impressive model line-up included the strong and striking characters of Erin O'Connor, Jessica Stam, Lily Donaldson, and Kendall Jenner – all sinister and sultry with dewy skin and dark lips, conjuring up a certain vampiric beauty no longer refined to the pages of an eerie tale. Masterfully moody and theatrical, the standout collection ultimately managed to romance its viewers by dancing and sweeping through the air like a velveted moth to a camera flash flame.

Originally published in ZERO Magazine.